Tufuse pro in 2011

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imagem
Posts: 20
Joined: Sat Mar 15, 2008 11:08 am
Location: Lisbon, Portugal

Tufuse pro in 2011

Post by imagem » Sun Apr 10, 2011 1:08 pm

Hi Max

I have a few questions regarding Tufuse pro:

1. Were there any updates to version 0.9.7 of TuFuse Pro? I believe this version was developed back in December 2008
2. I've downloaded TuFuse Pro Beta from the website to test it prior to buy it. Working great except for one detail: the preview does not change (both in slow and fast modes) when or after, for instance, dramatically changing the brightness slider
3. I'd like to know your thoughts regarding the use of Zero Noise in conjunction with TuFuse Pro - in your opinion, and to achieve the very best results, should Zero Noise be used before sending the images to TuFuse pro?

Thanks in advance.

Best,
imagem

TerryGB
Posts: 33
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 10:07 am

Re: Tufuse pro in 2011

Post by TerryGB » Mon Apr 11, 2011 4:17 am

No updates since 0.9.7 that I am aware of.

Preview should change - are you pressing the Preview button?

I always do any serious noise reduction after blending because the use of TuFuse will automatically cancel a lot of noise as long as you are actually using separately exposed images. Using noise reduction first will unnecessarily remove fine detail.


Lisbon is probably my favourite city, usually stay at Ollissippo Castello up by Castillo de San Jorge.

maxlyons
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Re: Tufuse pro in 2011

Post by maxlyons » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:01 am

imagem wrote:Hi Max

I have a few questions regarding Tufuse pro:

1. Were there any updates to version 0.9.7 of TuFuse Pro? I believe this version was developed back in December 2008
2. I've downloaded TuFuse Pro Beta from the website to test it prior to buy it. Working great except for one detail: the preview does not change (both in slow and fast modes) when or after, for instance, dramatically changing the brightness slider
3. I'd like to know your thoughts regarding the use of Zero Noise in conjunction with TuFuse Pro - in your opinion, and to achieve the very best results, should Zero Noise be used before sending the images to TuFuse pro?

Thanks in advance.

Best,
imagem
It has been a while since I updated TuFuse Pro. At the moment, I'm still pondering what to do with all of the software I have written using VB6 (e.g. TuFuse Pro), because Microsoft has announced that programs written using VB6 won't run on the next version of Windows. Given this, I think major updates to TuFuse Pro using VB6 wouldn't be sensible use of my time. That said, despite what I have read recently, I haven't "abandoned" TuFuse or TuFuse Pro...

As for the preview not working....can you post the console output that shows what happens when you push the preview button?

I don't have any opinion on Zero Noise...I don't think that I have used it.

Max
Max

imagem
Posts: 20
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Location: Lisbon, Portugal

Re: Tufuse pro in 2011

Post by imagem » Sat Apr 16, 2011 3:17 pm

Even though many time has passed since the release of the last version, I believe TuFuse still is the best available solution for (fine art) photography blending.
I'd love to experiment TuFuse Pro without the watermarks. Actually, I was planning to buy it, but the prospect that it won't run on the next version of Windows makes me think twice...
Anyway, do accept my congrats for this fantastic piece of software, Max.

DJMoore
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Location: Berkeley, CA

Re: Tufuse pro in 2011

Post by DJMoore » Wed Apr 20, 2011 10:24 pm

35.00 USD will grant you both the ability to experiment without watermarks and at the very least, enjoy the best exposure fusing software today until the next OS release, the time at which you decide to gut your machine and reinstall said OS, or TuFuse is coded for a future and as yet nonexistant OS. Let's put this in proper perspective, shall we?

imagem
Posts: 20
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Location: Lisbon, Portugal

Re: Tufuse pro in 2011

Post by imagem » Thu May 05, 2011 1:59 pm

Fair enough.
Got it and I can confirm it is an amazing piece of software.

So how are you guys achieving the best results (Max included)?
3 exposures or more than 3?
1, 2 or 3 EVs gap between each exposure?

maxlyons
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Re: Tufuse pro in 2011

Post by maxlyons » Thu May 05, 2011 11:38 pm

imagem wrote:So how are you guys achieving the best results (Max included)?
In practice, I find that 2 exposures is usually enough to capture the dynamic range that I need. I find that using more than 2 exposures is time consuming, more work to align, and not particularly beneficial for most "real world" scenes. Given that most of my output is targeted for low dynamic range devices (e.g. paper or monitor), there is a finite dynamic range that can be displayed on those devices without looking "cartoonish". And, I find that range can be usually captured with two exposures about 2 or 3 stops apart, depending on the scene.

This scene uses exposures that are two stops apart, in order to capture light in the sky and detail in the rocks:

Image

In fact, for a lot of scenes, I only take one raw exposure, and process it differently using raw conversion software to create two different "exposures" of the same image to process with TuFuse. This can lead to a final result image with more noise (if I have to significantly increase the brightness when processing), but eliminates all problems with image alignment and makes shooting the scene much quicker, which is a real advantage when shooting during periods of rapidly changing light (e.g. sunrise or sunset):

Image

Max

imagem
Posts: 20
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Location: Lisbon, Portugal

Re: Tufuse pro in 2011

Post by imagem » Fri May 06, 2011 7:56 am

Hmm... alignment should not be a problem as I always use a sturdy tripod, mirror lockup and a remote switch.

On the other hand, I share your concern regarding periods of rapidly changing light (or moving sea, for instance).

Anyways, using two or more images from the same Raw would bypass one of the most interesting assets of this software: automatic (and natural) noise removal.

That said, assuming there are no alignment issues, perhaps the way to go (in theory, depending on the scene of course) would be something like -3EV, 0, +3EV.

Makes sense?

dsjtecserv
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Re: Tufuse pro in 2011

Post by dsjtecserv » Wed May 11, 2011 8:41 pm

For what its worth, I almost automatically shoot a three-shot bracket, of between 1.33 and 2 stops around the middle. I figure I have a 1-stop adjustment leeway in RAW, so there's no need to shoot with a tighter bracket than 1.33. Two stops is enough for nearly any scene that does not have a light source (such as the sun or sunlit clouds) in it. If it does, such as a bright sunset, then I shoot the three-stop bracket at +/- 2 tops, then immediately crank the shutter speed down 9 clicks (3 stops), and shoot another bracket, which gives me -1, -3 and -5. I don't really need all 6 exposures, and I'll often thin them and just use 3 or 4. I might use the -5 one to manually blend the sun into the TuFused result of using 2 or 3 of the others.

In general I agree with Max; two or three representing a 4-stop range, is usually enough. Using more from a greater spread tends to move the image toward the low-contrast HDR-type look.

Dave

panapants
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Re: Tufuse pro in 2011

Post by panapants » Fri Aug 05, 2011 10:38 am

dsjtecserv wrote:For what its worth, I almost automatically shoot a three-shot bracket, of between 1.33 and 2 stops around the middle. I figure I have a 1-stop adjustment leeway in RAW, so there's no need to shoot with a tighter bracket than 1.33. Two stops is enough for nearly any scene that does not have a light source (such as the sun or sunlit clouds) in it. If it does, such as a bright sunset, then I shoot the three-stop bracket at +/- 2 tops, then immediately crank the shutter speed down 9 clicks (3 stops), and shoot another bracket, which gives me -1, -3 and -5. I don't really need all 6 exposures, and I'll often thin them and just use 3 or 4. I might use the -5 one to manually blend the sun into the TuFused result of using 2 or 3 of the others.

In general I agree with Max; two or three representing a 4-stop range, is usually enough. Using more from a greater spread tends to move the image toward the low-contrast HDR-type look.

Dave
I agree with you Dave. There is such a thing as too much in this case so there is a fine line between not enough and over the edge. It seems like everybody here is pretty much on the same page in realizing that HDR look is not what we want especially from the extra attention to detail we are paying on our side of the camera. It seems like there are some photographers out there who realize this is an issue in professional photography based on some online reviews I have read. Have you guys ever heard of Angie's List?

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