Max Lyons Forums

elf · Joined: 01 Dec 2004 Posts: 211

Here's the latest incarnation of my pano head:

I've added vertical and horizontal linear slides that allow the pano head to compensate for a tilt/shift lens. The Hartblei 80mm lens can shift 10mm in any direction, so I've added horizontal and vertical stops at 10mm from the center position.

The vertical linear slide makes it possible to use the camera in either portrait or landscape mode. Landscape mode is a lot easier to use with the articulated Live View on my Olympus e330.

It also has a lead screw for adjusting the depth. This functions quite nicely as a micro slide. It allows focus stacking by moving the camera instead of changing the focus point.

Other changes include a positive lock for the vertical rotation and more support for the vertical rotation shaft.
Link to previous version: http://www.tawbaware.com/forum2/viewtopic.php?t=3508

rschlierbeck · Joined: 19 Aug 2006 Posts: 10 Location: New York

Very nice update to your original design.

Building panoheads has become a hobby for me. I keep building and redesigning and building new ones. One thing I couldn't tell from the pictures is how you are locking the rotation on the vertical joint (joint at the top of the vertical arm.) Locking rotation seems to be the most difficult part for me. I am working on a new design that I think will be easy to make and more rigid that my previous designs. I'm always looking for new ideas.

Here is a link to one I built a couple of generations ago. Actually inspired by your first design.

http://www.scotthendershot.com/Panohead/UniversalPanoHead.htm

I'm always interested in sharing ideas and collaborating too.

Thanks for sharing what you have done.

Scott

elf · Joined: 01 Dec 2004 Posts: 211

Thanks, I'll try to take some closeups of it this weekend.

elf · Joined: 01 Dec 2004 Posts: 211

Here's a closer view of the locking mechanism:

and another view:

The "Washer/Bearing surfaces" were added because the pivot hole was getting elongated in the original design.

The locknut is tightened up enough that the camera will generally stay in position when the locking nut is loosened, but not enough that moving it to the next position is hard.

It only takes light tightening of the lock knob to keep it in position even with my heaviest lens.

rschlierbeck · Joined: 19 Aug 2006 Posts: 10 Location: New York

Thanks for the close ups. They really help to understand what you are doing.

It looks like you have found an excellent way to lock the rotation of the support arm. Like I mentioned that has been the most challenging part for me. I am working on a new joint for my support bracket. The last one I made is ok but will slip if I put any pressure on the camera.

The new design uses what I hope will be a very secure clutch to hold the camera in position.

In this new design the camera support arm will be attached to a spindle that rotates around a shoulder screw mounted to the vertical support. The clutch sits inside a guard and is tightened by a screw that passes through the guard.

I have cut the first prototype pieces and will be assembling it soon. I'm just waiting for a few more parts to arrive.

I doubt this will be my last design. It's just another test to learn from.

Scott

elf · Joined: 01 Dec 2004 Posts: 211

I think that should work quite well. How well does that material hold threads, or is there a metal nut embedded in it?

I tried a design that worked like a disc brake, but if didn't exert enough pressure to hold without slipping.

rschlierbeck · Joined: 19 Aug 2006 Posts: 10 Location: New York

The material is Corian. It's a cast acrylic. The stuff they make counter tops out of. It's actually quite hard and strong but very machinable. It does hold threads very well but I will be using a threaded insert because I expect a fair amount of wear on the threads from being tightened and loosened continuously.

I had thought about a disk brake as well but could never build it in my head. I could not think of how to make it with the tools I have. I'm surprised to hear you say it didn't have enough holding power. I'm glad you mentioned it though, now I won't have to go down that road.

I would love to get a look inside the Really Right Stuff components. I expect their method is elegant and strong.

There are several reasons I use Corian instead of aluminum. I am not a machinist and have no training or skills in machining (this can easily be seen in the miscut in the spindle where the bearing mounts) so I have to make it up as I go along. Corian comes in 1/2 inch sheets and scraps are easy to come by. It machines very easily and is pretty strong although can be brittle. I have a home-made CNC milling machine but I've never cut metal with it. It's not nearly as rigid as a commercial machine so I don't know what to expect. I like doing my prototyping ( and these are all just experiments) in corian because it's fast to work with. I guess if I ever get to a final design I'll make the effort to mill it in 6061.

rschlierbeck · Joined: 19 Aug 2006 Posts: 10 Location: New York

I have all of the parts now and have assembled the new pieces. I still need to do some clean up but here is how it looks at the moment.

The spindle is excellent. It is very rigid and does not sag or wobble when the camera is mounted. The clamp locks the rotation very well. There is no slipping at all when tightened.

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