Max Lyons Forums

[marona]

I bought photomatix pro a few months back, i'm not a big fan of overcooked hdr photos, but you can use it to create realistic hdr shots. just read max's last post and downloaded TUFuse.

just tried it out with the default settings and it looks really good, i had a single raw file i wanted to convert to hdr or rather drag more out of it. i know hdr is not for single raw files, but here is what i did....

in canon DPP i output 5 16bit tiff files from -2 to +2 exposure range with 1 stop between each shot. i slapped these into photomatix and this is about the best i could muster after playing round with the final tone mapped image in photoshop.

i then tried tufuse, converted the 16bit tiffs to 8 bit and threw them at tufuse, popped the output into photoshop and a minute later i had...

i'm impressed, the saturation is more natural in the tufuse image, here is a 100% crop of each.

hdr

tufuse

i'm going to give it a go on some of my other images, but as a first shot attempt i'm impressed.

many thanks max!
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keith

www.marona.co.uk
www.cambridgeimages.co.uk

[maxlyons]

[marona]

thanks again, i wasn't sure it was a bug with tufuse i just thought it couldn't handle 16bit tiffs, all the better now though.

here is another photomatix & tufuse conversion comparison from 3 separate exposures 2 ev apart.

first one is with photomatix and then about 10 minutes in photoshop to make it look half decent.

this one is with tufuse and then about 1 minute in photoshop!

again i prefer the tufuse look. keen to give the depth of field a go as well at some stage.
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keith

www.marona.co.uk
www.cambridgeimages.co.uk

[Terrywoodenpic]

Marona
I am amazed how much more real your TUfuse stuff looks than the rather false photomatrix look.
There will of course be those out there, who prefer the Technicolor look of Matrix.

Give me real every day.

I can see this as an in-camera option one day, much like the Highlight enhancers of recent times.
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Terry

After 60 + years in photography, Now Down sized to Canon G6 Digital and Olympus OM1n film cameras, and accessories. Now up sized/added a Canon 40D and minolta G600

[bill t.]

A quick word of thanks to Max for this wonderful tool! Somehow this little gem had escaped my attention until now.

Haven't had a chance to work with it much, but as Marona suggests Tufuse produces an output file that is very easy to manipulate in Photoshop. Tufuse shadows and highlights have great tonal separation. The highlights in particular are very luminous without the strong compression typical of Photomatix...this is obvious on the right side of Marona's Tufuse sample.

Also, Tufuse does not produce bizarre artifacts such as the "dark scabs" around leaves that move between exposures. The ghosts Tufuse creates for moving objects are light and transparent in way that suggests movement, rather than gray and opaque and strange looking. In addition to it's quick processing speed, the lack of motion artifacts in need of removal make Tufuse by far the faster program.

Hoping to have some free time soon to play with the parameters. But using just the simplest command line I got test results that were very impressive.

[waters]

Any chance that a third picture with Enfuse could be generated? I like TuFuse over Photomatix

[marona]

here is the raw output from both tufuse followed by enfuse, both using the default options, can you spot the difference? i've not done anything to them in photoshop just resized and save for the web.

first one is tufuse second is enfuse.
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keith

www.marona.co.uk
www.cambridgeimages.co.uk

[Terrywoodenpic]

I would say from those examples that Tufuse shows greater local contrast in a tone area, especially noticeable on the road way and on the vegetation on the left.
This gives a slightly better sense of modelling.
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Terry

After 60 + years in photography, Now Down sized to Canon G6 Digital and Olympus OM1n film cameras, and accessories. Now up sized/added a Canon 40D and minolta G600

[maxlyons]